Polar Lights/Round 2 USS Enterprise - Space Seed Edition - Review and Build

So for those of you who have been reading my build of the Avro Arrow, it's still going on but as Christmas is coming, I am building this model as a gift for a friend.

This model depicts the classic scene from The Original Star Trek TV series from the 60s when the USS Enterprise comes upon a derelict Earth ship from the late 20th Century where a crew of genetically engineered 'supermen' (and women) are in suspended animation.  This is also where we first meet Khan, the leader of the group, played by Ricardo Montalban, long before he was selling Chryslers with 'fine Corinthian leather' or famously playing Mr. Rourke from 'Fantasy Island.  I digress...

This kit is an upgraded re-release of an older kit made by Polar Lights, released in 2003 which for the first time was an accurate representation of this kit despite being about 11 inches long.  It also was the first kit to include accurate decals of the ship, window decals and alternate parts to make 1st pilot, 2nd pilot or production series version of the famous starship.  AMT was the first company to have the license to make model kits from Star Trek and the original 1/650 scale, 18 inch USS Enterprise is the most successful kit in terms of sales since it was released. 

For such a small model, it has a relatively high part count - about 50 parts (including the SS Botany Bay, and alternate parts.

Changes to the kit:

Aside from the addition of the Botany Bay tree, very little has changed with this model.

The only major difference is an improved stand (Round 2 dome base which seems to have become standard), and the removal of Polar Lights copyright which was raised text on the OUTSIDE of the lower saucer.  Round 2 has it printed inside the lower saucer half instead.  An new connection has been created on the underside of the secondary hull and some strange raised bumps added to the sides of the secondary hull where the reddish-orange pendant goes.

The Botany Bay itself snaps together easily but there is a weakness on the rear section.  When I get to building it I will reinforce it.  The detail is really good on the sleeper ship.

The decals are the same as when originally released 10 years ago (the sleeper ship had no markings on it though the Remastered Edition of 'Space Seed' has an added 'S.S. Botany Bay' on the CGI model), except they have a matte finish in contrast to how decals usually have a glossy finish.  Regardless I always use a Dull Coat as the final finish on these types of models.

The Build

I've decided I'm going to light this model (there are a number of clear parts on the Enterprise) in its major sections like the front of the nacelles (called Bussard Collectors in Star Trek lore), the domes on the top and bottom of the saucer, running lights on the saucer and the formation dome on the shuttlebay.  Kind of ambitious for such a tiny model.  Since there's lights, there's a need to light block.

I start with the Rustoleum grey primer, followed by a flat black paint.  The plastic is quite translucent despite being molded in a greeny-grey (same colour as the 1/350 scale USS Enterprise).  I also filled in some of the inscribed paint lines: the undercut section on the front of the nacelles which will be a decal, the triangular landing pads on the bottom of the saucer which will also be a decal and a paint line on the neck of the ship.

As individual parts I like to prime them to check for imperfections and also apply the first coat of the base colour.  If I wasn't adding lights to the model I would be gluing together the sub-assemblies at this point.  I have also started painting some of the major parts such as the rings in the deflector housing.

For the shuttlebay, I'm using one fiber optic strand to act as the observation window.  This is the only window I will be drilling out on this model - far too many to do and very labour intensive, especially at this scale of model. 

For the pylons/struts for the nacelles I had to carve a groove/channel for the wires to go.  I used a dremel tool to start the channel and remove most of the plastic.  I cleaned up the rest with 3/16" rat tail file.

For this model, I'm using magnet wire (first time I've used this product) with a wire gauge of 24 AWG.  What's different about this is it has a very thin coating on it and it's called magnet wire as it's used as the coil wire in motors which go around...magnets.  To remove the jacket, I use a disposable cigarette lighter.

With such a key component, I will leave this clamped up for a few days before I sand the seams.  As you can see in the picture above, I used good, old fashioned, Testors model glue in a tube.  Why?  Many modelers dismiss this glue as a beginners glue, there are many products on the market for different purposes.  That said, this glue actually melts the plastic giving it a strong bond.  The downside to this glue is it's very messy.  I will return to work on this model in a few days to allow the paint on the rest of the model and the glue to cure.  From a distance, the clamps make an interesting structure.

Stay tuned for more on this build as well as more on the Avro Arrow build.  Happy Modelling!