Round 2 USS Enterprise NCC-1701-A and USS Brattain NCC-21166 1/1000 scale DOUBLE BUILD UPDATE #2

Greetings!!

Oh, I've really been looking forward to this build.  It's somewhat daunting at 1/1000 scale with so much wiring, but as they say, size doesn't matter.  In this case, if I can squeeze every light I want into these two tiny models, then I'm ready for the next stage in my hobby building.

PREVIOUS ENTRIES

First introduction to the project:  http://fordosmodels.blogspot.ca/2015/02/round-2-uss-enterprise-ncc-1701-and-uss.html

This entry introduces the project, highlights lighting tests and general research

2nd mini update: http://fordosmodels.blogspot.ca/2015/02/columbia-challengerthe-nx-class-sisters.html

This highlights light block the Enterprise-A and drilling of the windows.

3rd mini update: http://fordosmodels.blogspot.ca/2015_03_01_archive.html

This highlights work on the Brattain.

I had both models assembled (snap-fit models) to keep the pieces together but the Reliant/Brattain model is not designed to unsnap many times. Actually this is true of the Enterprise as well.  My version, USS Excelsior often looks like this:

(not including the fact the port warp pylon snapped off in the middle - my own fault, not the kit or manufacturer's fault).

The saucer is so heavy it stressed out the tabs which hold the neck to the secondary hull.

The basic steps I took with this model build is to research, test fit every major component, build in reverse - thinking of the flow of wiring, and then when I was ready to start handling the model, I washed every part in my kitchen sink with dish detergent, a tooth brush, air dried on paper towel and then arranged them on my countertop in an 'exploded view' to ensure I had every part accounted for.

USS Enterprise-A

When compared to the original AMT USS Enterprise which is approximately double the size of this little model, it had a similar part count, just a few shy of this model, and no clear parts.

USS Brattain

This model is very similar in part count to the AMT release of it 1995, even the way the model is subdivided, both models containing clear parts.  

My methodology for building these models is to start at the exact same starting point for each model - the warp nacelles.  I did this for my Tesla Build.  These parts are virtually identical so I can build them in the same fashion.  The only major difference is the Reliant/Brattain nacelle halves capture 2 pylon tabs where as the Enterprise warp nacelles can be assembled whole before attaching them to the pylons.

So this entry will chronicle the warp nacelles and warp pylons for both ships...

As noted above, the assembly for both models are different despite similar components.  The Brattain assembles as 4 main units (2 warp nacelles/pylons, roll-bar/weapons pod, main hull/saucer).  The Enterprise assembles as 5 main units (2 warp nacelles, secondary hull with pylons, neck, saucer).  However, with wiring, this changes everything.  My basic flow is this:  Warp nacelles to pylons, to secondary hull halves, to upper hull, to assembled neck and lastly to the undercarriage where all the connections will meet.  And then the saucer.

PYLONS

For the Brattain, I created a access panel, same as on the real model where all the wiring for the other sections will come together.

(from www.st-bilder.de)

That little piece of plastic removed from the pylon will be the last piece added to the model.  Round 2 got it right when they designed this pylon - they made the inner pylon half a solid piece.  AMT made the outside a solid piece (with the separation line) and it's a weak design.  Due to the scribe, my USS Reliant's port nacelle broke off there 10 years after I completed it.  (I was proud of that one, I had a three toned aztek on it!).

Jumping ahead, I have since primed the pylon system for Brattain (I call it a system due to the roll bar and the junction at the phaser cannons) keeping like parts assembled.

I did the same thing for Enterprise-A but ran into problems - the parts didn't fit back together well because it is that well designed, it snaps together tightly.

With a bit of trimming, wires easily pass through the pylon assembly of the Brattain.

I'm now in the process of gluing up the individual halves to the pylons (first gluing on this kit!)

The Pylons for the Enterprise A are far simpler.

Just enough space to fit magnet wire through.  I love this stuff, easy to use, doesn't break the coating melts off vs. using wire strippers.

Although this is isn't the subject of pylons, but it relates to wiring, I've started to make paths for wires to go on the Enterprise.

FIT ISSUES

And addressing the fit issues with the neck.  Although this doesn't pertain to the nacelles, at the point in the build, I'm addressing issues early on where I can repair them.  The back taper of the neck sits up above where it should blend in so (as seen above), I glued the two halves at that point and

 (in this shot, only half of the spot lights have been drilled out with a pin vise)

 (you can see light between where the deflector housing and the neck meet - 

nothing a bit of plastic and Evercoat can't fix...later)

Here's the cut:

and another cut - this is so I can add this piece (lower secondary hull panel) after attaching the deflector housing, all for wiring issues.

So when assembling the model, the neck would attach and I would be able to route the wires through the bottom of the ship.  We'll see how well this works out.  Lots of connections :S

I have since reassembled the model with it's first coat of white primer.

WARP NACELLES

So these components are identical (there are subtle difference some included, others not so subtle) to match the studio models.  Here's a side-by-side

grey belong to Enterprise, unpainted belong to Brattain;

top two are the outboard nacelles; bottom two are inboard nacelles

For the Enterprise, these are the most accurate warp nacelles to date!  The 1/350 is pretty damn close but one big difference is the front angle of the Bussard intakes isn't slanted enough.  The old AMT ones were pretty bad in many ways, especially when they added that fake panel detailing all over the model.

setting up for a paint test on the saucer

I digress.  The ones for the Brattain/Reliant are pretty good except they should have a more rounded bottom of the nacelle where the Bussard intakes are, and the intakes are not as tall.

My effort to fix this.

I've glued pieces of styrene so when I glue the intakes to the engine halves, I can easily putty this in.

I did a lot of prep to the engine halves, most notably cutting out the tabs from where the copper engine details (unsure of the exact name of the part...'chiller grills' is what the instructions say) as these will be glued into place.

And cutting out the inboard plastic with a dremel tool where the clear inner grills attach.

I've had to remove most of the pin and socket connections which is what made this model 'snap-together' kit.  This change is to allow for lighting.

The extra hole on the top of the nacelle is to have a fiber optic act like a spotlight on Brattain to light up the Starfleet pendant on the pylons.  Not canon, but I thought it would be a nice touch.

This is my first model to work with brass etch parts.  I've isolated the warp grills from the rest of the brass kit.

I then annealed the brass (heating it with a Bic lighter so when I bend it, it keeps it's shape) and bent it around the clear part.

I have since used black printer on both inner and outer grills.

The outboard grills also have a coat of a very dark grey over them so they aren't totally black.  That was some advice given to me by a professional modeler.

This wraps up this entry.  It will be a little while before I post again, work has been very busy for me and I have a number of other projects I have on the go at the moment.

Happy Model Building!!

Cheers!