Happy Thanksgiving!!

Wishing my American readers a safe and Happy Thanksgiving!!

No models to post today but check back tomorrow for some more posts.

Cheers and happy modelling!!

Hobbycraft's 1:72 scale Avro Arrow: Update #4

Final assembly!  I've waited to post until I got this bird finally together (minus the spike on the nose which will go on last as I don't want to break it off).

The engines and cockpit/nose section were very simple to attach.  First thing was to solder the wire and use heat shrink to insulate it.

 
Before I moved on to what I thought was going to be simple, the air intakes on either side of the cockpit, I had to deal with seaming some really bad gaps.  Evercoat makes it sooo easy!

So now onto those intakes...

I was a bit puzzled by the fit (again) and decided to move onto the canopy for the cockpit.

Same $%&^ fit issues!!  So I went to Google to find detailed pictures of these areas and soon realized I was going to need to significantly modify these parts to make the plane accurate,

First thing I noticed was the notched section of the spine is actually a vent with only a dorsal slit and flight aluminum overhang.

I filled the spine with bits of styrene to make the height and used evercoat to gap the height difference.  Also a fresh coat of primer to see any other defects.  I will be putting a very fine sheet of styrene to create the overhang.

Now the air intakes.  First off the part is hollow and it shouldn't be so I filled it.  Secondly the intake narrows in a vertical direction from the bottom so I used evercoat to fill that.

The second detail missing is a vent that sticks out of the bottom facing aft from each intake.  So a trip to the hobby store for some Evergreen square tubing simplified me trying to build a micro box.

So now Final Assembly!!!  So all I have left to do before painting is some seaming around the newly added parts, sanding, sanding, and, wet sanding.

Stay tuned!!! I have a few other models starting up while I finish the arrow so I will be posting them as well as my first 'big build' in years, an AMT USS Enterprise NCC-1701-D from Star Trek Generations...

Happy Modelling!!

Hobbycraft's 1:72 scale Avro Arrow: Update #3

Model building is not without it's mistakes.  My big mistake was forgetting how fragile fiber optics can be and that model cement only increases their chance of breaking.  More on that in a bit.

After spending sometime cleaning up the sub-assemblies, I started the main assembly of the fuselage.  First thing I needed to do was to address the base.  I am using a dome base from a Round 2 model kit and a hollow rod purchased from Lowes.  I had to locate the centre of gravity on the model and chose how the model attaches to the rod.  I decided to give the model 35 degree or so angle of attack so it looks like it's climbing in flight.

To secure the lower fuselage to the rod, I built up a 'socket' using bits of styrene to reinforce the opening.  Since this won't be seen, I wasn't paying particular attention to neatness, it just has to keep the model secure - and it does!

The rest of the main body was assembled with holes drilled out in the upper fuselage to accept the fiber optics for the flashing lights.  I also gap filled the seams and sanded smooth followed by a coat of primer.  I will still need to do another pass of seaming and filling...

So now the issue after handling it a few times and glue weakening the fiber optics, a few (there are only 3 of them) broke off.  What to do??

Since both wings mount to the top of the fuselage, I was able to grind out material using a dremel tool.  Then using hot glue, I glued the *&^% out of the fibers to the clear LEDs. 

For the electronics, I wired everything in parallel for a few reasons: a) the circuit will always work regardless if a bulb, LED or other component burns out or is missing; b) the wiring is soo much simpler; c) there's no voltage drop across each leg of the circuit; d) this is how houses and other buildings are wired.




Many years ago when I started my career in the film business, some of my first tasks were rebuilding breaker boxes.  The power that comes into the box often is connected to a 'bus' bar for both the HOT, NEUTRAL and GROUND leads.  Each component (or Load) is connected to the bus bars, creating a parallel circuit.  This is how I wire my models.  I use 14 AWG as my bus bars, solder the connection to them and secure the bars to the model.  (The LED covered in heat shrink tubing is a 5V Flashing LED which I am using a 'controller' for the clear LEDs).

Off of the bus bar I have 4 connections:
-16 inch lead wire from the base power supply (9V battery) - TIP, I usually put a knot on a lead wire that passes any opening so the wire doesn't accidentally get pulled out.
-the flashing circuit
-a lead wire to the nose section
-a lead wire to the engines

The fit:  Very poor.  There's a bowing in the plastic where the two sections of fuselage meet.  That will be addressed later on.  It will need to set overnight (at least) before I can attach the remaining sections (note the lead wires out the front and back of the plane).

Stay tuned and Happy Modelling!!

Hobbycraft's 1:72 scale Avro Arrow: Update #2

Greetings, it's been a longer break than I was expecting. I've had a very busy and have been unable to post but I have made significant progress on the Avro Arrow model.

As I build most models I assemble them in sub-assemblies - workable sections that I will fill, sand and prime.  Might as well start off with the Cockpit.

As I previously mentioned this is a pretty crude cockpit with 2 figures, 2 seats and a floor.

I would have liked a control panel but when viewing the canopy for the model aircraft, the plastic is very thick so I think a lot of this detail would be lost (even the way I painted the flight suits!)  The window markings are incredibly difficult to make out, even under magnification so I used some masking from my 1:350 scale USS Enterprise masking set from Orbital Drydocks.  (I bought their masking set for "azteking" the hull and Aztek Dummy's vinyl window mask set for the windows, not knowing Orbital Drydocks also include a window mask set too.)

I have added a LED at the front of the cockpit to simulate the glow from the controls and tinted the bulb with different shades of clear Tamiya paint.

 

 AIR INTAKES:

A very small section of the model but gets added on last on this build.  Unfortunately the thickness of the plastic is not consistent with each other so some filling will be required.

WINGS & TAIL

So these parts will have flashing markers on their tips which requires fiber optics.  I get my fiber optics from a store called George's Trains in Markham.  www.georgestrains.com

The wings seemed very simple until I built my first one.  Essentially there is an upper wing and a lower wing but the as opposed to being two halfs, one fits inside the other on very tiny tabs. 

And same goes for the doors for the landing gear.  I had to reinforce that as well as add plastic around the perimeter of where the lower wing connects with the upper wing.  I use spring clamps to glue the sections and leave it over night.

The tail is essentially one piece but in order to put a fiber optic strand in it, I had to make a channel using a dremel tool.

Working with fiber optic strands can be tricky.  Most glues (especially CA or superglue) will melt the strand.  Microscale Industries makes a product called: "Micro Kristal Klear" which has the consistency of white glue but dries clear and can even make windows over small openings!  For a filler, I've started to use a Metal Glaze - 2 part polyester finishing and blending putty made by Evercoat. I got the idea to use this from watching many episodes of "Steve Neill's Garage" on Youtube.  Excellent show on model building from a master model builder and 30+ year veteran of big budget Hollywood features.

The thing about using Evercoat is it set pretty fast but when using an applicator like a putty knife or a home made one out of toothpicks or popsicle sticks, it will go on incredible smooth.

In about five minutes or so the putty hardens enough to sculpt it with a knife to the basic shape you need.  In 20 minutes it is fully cured and sand-able.

JET EXHAUST SECTION

This is actually only one part but because I'm lighting it up, it is now a small sub-assembly.

The exhaust is not entirely accurate and the formation almost looks more like an 'intake' fan blade assembly rather than the exhaust.  The following is a picture of a real Avro Arrow jet from the Parry Sound Museum in 2000.

I ground down 2 orange water-clear LEDs to fit in the openings I made and painted the exhaust with aluminum.  The LEDs throw a great deal of light.

Stay tuned for update # 3.  Happy Modelling!

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!!

Okay, so not exactly a modelling post but it sorta ties into it.

Right around the time of Revenge of The Sith, I saw in a costume shop in Toronto a life-sized, screen accurate costume of Darth Vader being sold as a costume for $1500.  I knew I wanted it but, $1500??  Not in the budget so I decided to make my own.  I did buy the helmet at the lower cost of $250.  :/

Something not widely known is Darth Vader's mask is actually two tone as seen above.  There is an alternating dark metal and gloss black on the helmet which carries over on the armour.  The helmet originally was just molded in black plastic.

The chest-pack here came from a Darth Vader Voice Changer.  it's about 90% of the size it should be but I'm okay with that as it is highly detailed.  I had to repaint though and added lights to it.  The larger green light and red light i believe don't light up for the original 3 films and the green was blue but I think that changed for ROTS (Revenge of the Sith).  It is on a separate circuit if I don't want to light it.

The belt had some damage as I unpacked it.  I built it from scratch using 2 project boxes from Radio Shack, LED's, plastic screws, a black switch cover and a belt from a thrift store.  Missing one lens on the box on the left and I lost the buckle.  Aluminum duct tape is a temporary solution.  The outer and inner capes I sewed with material from Fabric Land.  The armour is in rough shape but was built up from laminating acrylic plastic and using super glue to hold it together.  The cod piece was also made from material from Fabric Land.  The body suit is a thermal suit from MEC (Mountain Equipment Co-Op) and the boots are biker boots from Giant Tiger for $20!!  And the gloves were are a Star Wars licensed product, like the helmet.  I will be doing an overhaul of this costume for next year.

Hope you had a great Halloween!!  (and yes that is a Death Star Pumpkin!)

Rock on!!