Hobbycraft's 1:72 scale Avro Arrow: Update #3

Model building is not without it's mistakes.  My big mistake was forgetting how fragile fiber optics can be and that model cement only increases their chance of breaking.  More on that in a bit.

After spending sometime cleaning up the sub-assemblies, I started the main assembly of the fuselage.  First thing I needed to do was to address the base.  I am using a dome base from a Round 2 model kit and a hollow rod purchased from Lowes.  I had to locate the centre of gravity on the model and chose how the model attaches to the rod.  I decided to give the model 35 degree or so angle of attack so it looks like it's climbing in flight.

To secure the lower fuselage to the rod, I built up a 'socket' using bits of styrene to reinforce the opening.  Since this won't be seen, I wasn't paying particular attention to neatness, it just has to keep the model secure - and it does!

The rest of the main body was assembled with holes drilled out in the upper fuselage to accept the fiber optics for the flashing lights.  I also gap filled the seams and sanded smooth followed by a coat of primer.  I will still need to do another pass of seaming and filling...

So now the issue after handling it a few times and glue weakening the fiber optics, a few (there are only 3 of them) broke off.  What to do??

Since both wings mount to the top of the fuselage, I was able to grind out material using a dremel tool.  Then using hot glue, I glued the *&^% out of the fibers to the clear LEDs. 

For the electronics, I wired everything in parallel for a few reasons: a) the circuit will always work regardless if a bulb, LED or other component burns out or is missing; b) the wiring is soo much simpler; c) there's no voltage drop across each leg of the circuit; d) this is how houses and other buildings are wired.




Many years ago when I started my career in the film business, some of my first tasks were rebuilding breaker boxes.  The power that comes into the box often is connected to a 'bus' bar for both the HOT, NEUTRAL and GROUND leads.  Each component (or Load) is connected to the bus bars, creating a parallel circuit.  This is how I wire my models.  I use 14 AWG as my bus bars, solder the connection to them and secure the bars to the model.  (The LED covered in heat shrink tubing is a 5V Flashing LED which I am using a 'controller' for the clear LEDs).

Off of the bus bar I have 4 connections:
-16 inch lead wire from the base power supply (9V battery) - TIP, I usually put a knot on a lead wire that passes any opening so the wire doesn't accidentally get pulled out.
-the flashing circuit
-a lead wire to the nose section
-a lead wire to the engines

The fit:  Very poor.  There's a bowing in the plastic where the two sections of fuselage meet.  That will be addressed later on.  It will need to set overnight (at least) before I can attach the remaining sections (note the lead wires out the front and back of the plane).

Stay tuned and Happy Modelling!!