At this point I'm closing in on getting the sub assemblies ready for final assembly.
PRIMARY HULL/SAUCER
This was basically done the other day but a few hairs and bits got on the surface and where I painted with Tulip, it looked blotchy. So another pass of 400 grit sandpaper followed by 0000 steel wool and I got an acceptable surface. I also noticed in going through some online reference pictures of the USS Enterprise before the 1991 Smithsonian restoration (I'm not as bothered by the weathering but more happy the correct 'Bussard Collectors' and correct Deflector dish were fabricated vs. the crap which was installed on it back in the 70's) I noticed there is one accent colour on the topside of the saucer I never noticed before...the 'bump' which is supposed to be the turbolift/elevator is dark gray, same as the rest of the accent colours.
The clear dome stills needs some close up detailing/clean-up from where the mask was. Considering the 'turbolift' is about 1/8" in diameter, not bad for neatness.
The gray strip along the back of the saucer is bare plastic to make it easier for gluing the rectangular section along the saucer (in reality it is a bolt cover on the 11' model).
ENGINEERING/NACELLES SECTION
So this is the big update, at least for me. I got a smooth surface on the Secondary Hull and painted it. When it was dry to the touch I attached the nacelles to the starboard side.
Next step, wiring...
I pre-made a wiring harness using 24 gauge telephone wire (it's solid vs. stranded and is more than enough for this wiring situation) soldered to a 'bus-bar' (this is something I outlined in one of my Avro Arrow builds and started doing on my Galaxy Class build I did last year for a dear friend of mine who works in the film business, like me. Also from some electrician training I had early in my career I learned about how distribution boxes work) made from 14 gauge solid copper wire. The rest of the wiring is made with magnetic wire which is very strong, thin, flexible and to strip all you need is a Bic lighter. Bic lighter are also great for creating lenses on fiber optic strands....
A note on bus-bars, in distribution boxes they are often open-air only separated by distance. In my builds I encase them with hot glue from a glue gun which not only cements them in place but also insulates the the +ve from the -ve. I also sometimes use liquid electricians tape but the curing time is 24 hrs.
Finally closed up. I will leave this at least 24 hours to let this cure, then red putty to fill the seams and gaps.
SS BOTANY BAY
(...Never told you how the Enterprise picked up the Botany Bay, lost in space from the year 1996 with myself and the ship's company in cryogenic freeze?...Khan, Star Trek II: The Wrath of Khan)
That's me geeking out. This is why I bought this 1/1000 scale model, I wanted a licensed SS Botany Bay model, which I was willing to give it away as a Christmas gift...that didn't work out...back to the model.
I realized this evening I really need to weather this little ship so I came up with a plan. I used 100 grit sand paper and a blunt X-Acto knife to make pit marks in the hull. I also finally came around to attaching the 'conning tower' (for lack of a better term - take away the engines, the cargo modules, it looks like a submarine).
I primed the model in standard grey, then in a tan rattle can made by Valspar, I used this same paint I used on the unnamed Galaxy Class Starship I made last year for a close friend (I will name it and my reasoning for it when I post it...think 'Alternating Current' as the inspiration). What I found at the time this paint was slow to dry/cure, surface tension broke around the edges (showed the undercoat at the edges). For me watching the original episode of 'Space Seed' it looked grey vs. the molded orangy/redish tones. Since the ship is supposed to be 270 years old (as per the Canon Star Trek timeline, the original series took place between 2265 & 2270 and the first season was 2266 where the Enterprise discovered Khan and his crew escaped Earth in 1996), I will heavily weather this.
The thin paint brings out panel lines...that was my goal. Lots of weathering to come.
Cheers!!!
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